High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is a technique that utilizes multiple photographs to expand the range of light captured in a single image. The vibrant and sometimes surreal results are often mistaken for paintings at first glance, until a closer look reveals the detail and accuracy of a photograph.

 

          The HDR technique is useful in settings that contain both bright and dark areas. As seen in the standard photograph to the right, cameras are often unable to capture the full range of light. The bright sky exceeds the maximum brightness level and the pixels become pure white (overexposed). The dark shadows reach the minimum brightness level and the pixels become pure black (underexposed). This results in a total loss of detail.  HDR photography solves this problem by using multiple exposure to increase the camera's limited 'dynamic range', i.e. the ratio between the maximum (white) and minimum (black) measurable light intensities. 

          Each HDR image is a product of 3 (or more) overlapping photographs- one normally exposed, one underexposed and one overexposed. As seen below, the underexposed image captures detail in the bright sky that is otherwise washed out in the other two images. The overexposed image provides detail in the shadows below the train that have faded to black in the other two image. When combined, the best parts of each image are selected to ensure proper exposure throughout the image. This results in a single image with high dynamic range. 

          Once these photographs are captured specialized HDR software is used to align and combine the images. Then through a process known as 'tone-mapping' the photographer can adjust the final appearance of the photograph. The layered image contains more 'information' than a standard photograph and allows for greater levels of adjustment- from subtle improvement to dramatic and radiant enhancement. The final tone-mapped HDR image is shown below...

View Examples of HDR Photography

          Panorama stitching is the process of taking multiple partially overlapping photographs and combining them into a single image using computer software. This technique expands the field of view of any camera lens, allowing the photographer to capture wide expansive scenes at incredibly high resolutions. 

          Panoramas are captured by slightly rotating the camera after each photo, leaving a small portion of the frame overlapping with the previous shot. The panorama software is then able to match the repeating features and seamlessly blend them using complex algorithms. 

          Most landscape panoramas use anywhere from 3 to 9 original photographs, however panoramas that encompass a full 360° may contain up to 25 images.  When combined with the HDR technique described above, each photo is taken 3 times at different exposures before rotating the camera, tripling the number of photos required for a single image. 

View Examples of Stitched Panoramas

          The micro planet effect turns a location into its own little world. Contrary to popular belief, there are no helicopters involved in the creation of these reality bending images. 

 

          With the 75 component images gathered, post-processing can begin. First the HDR images are combined and enhanced. Then the set of 25 HDR images are stitched together lengthwise using panorama software. At this stage the photograph resembles the panorama shown below...

          The final step is to warp the completed 360° HDR panorama. Using Photoshop the image is converted to polar coordinates, which stretches the image in a circular pattern. The two far ends of the panorama meet up and blend together seamlessly. And with that, a planet is born. 

View Examples of Micro Planets

          Macro photography utilizes specialized close-up lenses to peek into the microcosm of the miniature world. When the images are reproduced on paper the subjects become significantly larger than life and reveal incredible detail.

          The key tool for sharp macro photography is a quality 'prime' lens. These lenses have a fixed focal length, meaning they cannot zoom, but with fewer moving parts they are fine tuned for optimal sharpness. Additional tools of the trade include extension tubes, magnifying filters, external ring flashes and a steady tripod. 

         A major challenge of macro photography is finding the balance between aperture, shutter speed and light. With the camera viewing only a tiny area there is a very little light to be gathered. Normally a camera in a low light situation would use a large aperture to open wide and gather as much light as possible. However, large apertures result in shallow depth of fields, meaning the length of the area in focus is very small. When photographing object close to the camera the depth of field is naturally very shallow so the only way to capture the subject fully in focus is to use a small aperture. 

          Using a small aperture for macro photography increases the depth of field, but also causes another problem- the smaller opening in the lens significantly decreases the amount of light reaching the image sensor. To make up for this the shutter speed has to be increased to allow more time for light to enter the camera. During this longer exposure the camera must be held perfectly steady to avoid motion blur. External ring flashes may also be used to provide additional light, allowing for faster shutter speeds

          When viewing the natural world up close there is often more to be found than initially meets the eye. Can you spot the bug on the tiny flower buds below? 

Click the image to reveal the hidden bug. For a tougher challenge, try to find the bug hiding in the dogwood tree blossom below...

View Examples of Macro Photography

          The polarity series is part abstract art project, part science experiment. These photos utilize a technique found in physics classrooms and engineering labs but it is applied with an artistic touch, proving that science can be beautiful. 

          Although this technique may appear artificial and fabricated there is actually no photoshopping involved. With the right equipment in place this affect can be seen with the naked eye. It all begins with a polarized light source and a polarizing filter.

          Polarized light differs from regular light. Instead of being scattered in all directions, polarized light waves travel parallel in the same direction and orientation. A polarizing filter, which has parallel slots for light waves to pass through, can align with polarized light waves to allow light through or be set perpendicular to block it. With the polarity series, a bright white source of polarized light is aimed directly into the camera. Then the polarizing filter is set perpendicular to the light waves, blocking the light and creating the black background. 

          To create the affect, clear plastic items are placed between the camera and the polarized light source. Light passing through the object is deflected, making it scattered and unpolarized. Now some light waves are aligned with the slots in the polarizing filter and pass through, allowing the camera to see the object. 

          With the sample image shown only white light is used behind the object. The colors occur due to slight differences in how the various frequencies (colors) of light bend while passing through the material. This causes the white light, which is made up of all colors, to split into its components.  The patterns reveal hidden stress lines within the plastic, making this technique a useful tool for engineers attempting to identify weak points in the design of an object. 

View Examples of Polarization Photography